Orange Amère

Bigarrade, also known as an Orange Amère is an out-of-the-way (culinarily and geographically speaking) restaurant located in North-west of Paris. On a rainy day (almost hurricane-like), a trek to the northwest of Paris seems a bit absurd, but not when you’re going to see Christophe Pelé (and his second in command Giuliano Sperandio) in action and taste his no-choice menu at the small restaurant holding around 20 covers. Since it opened in 2007, it received it’s first Michelin-star in 2008, then a second in 2009 making it one of the top contenders to get a third star in consecutive years.
Daniel Rose (Chef of Spring) was a consultant and you can see similar features of both restaurants, notably the open kitchen. But it is more lively, more noisy, people can TALK out loud on top of American jazzy music. 
Conceptually, it is apparently between L’Astrance and Pierre Gagnaire, and like Pascal Barbot’s concept at l’Astrance, there is only 1 menu (changed daily) allowing the Chef to improvise and be spontaneous in his recipes. You can tell Pierre Gagnaire (former boss of Pelé) still has an influence over the 41-year old Chef with the contrasting flavors and colors.

Enough talking, let’s get to the pics!
Obviously, we went for the menu gourmand extravaganza.

Salted Focaccia and olive oil to start off

Soft-shell crab (moscardini) and grilled lemon, eaten with your hand. The meat was juicy, and coating crunchy.

Crème of celery with cacao

Dorade Royale with Tobiko eggs

Crème of foie gras

Raw St. Jacques (scallops) with onions

Rouget, endives and Squash seed with Karashi mustard


Aile de raie et truffe blanche, lemon caviar and dried cuttlefish

Pintade avec anguille et pate d’echalotes

Fromage: Brebis, chevre, copeau et raisin

Desserts parallel to Pierre Gagnaire’s set up

Pear in green tea froth and Granite d’orange

Pamplemousse passion and Mousse de citron

Sorbet a la mangue

Chocolate noir et chocolate pruneau

Dacquoise sandwich with the cheque

I thoroughly enjoyed the food here. I will be bias in this blog and state it is probably one of the best meals I have had here so far. The products were fresh, interesting, clean and light and and all-around enjoyable experience that I would like to have again. 

106 Rue Nollet
Tel: 01 42 26 01 02

Metro: Brochant (Ligne 13)


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