Le Jeu de Quilles

Le Jeu de Quilles, in the 14th arrondissement, is a very special, tiny restaurant holding 18 covers where the chef, Benoit Reix, (formerly of Les Fines Gueules) prepares French comfort food with an interesting twist in an open kitchen among convivial surroundings.

We were surrounded by regulars who were constantly chatting away with the very laid-back chef. He prepares the menu everyday (which changes daily) by himself and cooks by himself as well. All he needs is the 1 plongeur (dishwasher) and 1 waiter. I haven’t found a place with such reasonable prices: an entree and main dish was 19 euros while adding dessert came to a total of 23 euros; very reasonable indeed.

The chef receives his meat from none other than his neighbor (literally), Hugo Desnoyer. One could say, the butcher to the Chefs of both Michelin starred and non-Michelin starred restaurants. In his small shop, clients are lined up outside. Here you can find dozens of ready-to-cook preparations like carpaccio de veau, saucisson, or veal roast stuffed with cheese and ham, pork roast stuffed with dried fruits and even chickens boned and stuffed with truffles and mushrooms.

On today’s menu…

Mesclun, provolone et tomates confites (Mesclun salad with provolone cheese and sun-dried tomatoes – but what a great salad and what great tomatoes!)

Assiette de rosette (Thinly sliced salami ham)

Roast beef Limousin roti (Roasted roast beef from Limousin)

Though the menu was tantalizing, the a la carte choices could not be ignored…

Pot de Foie gras de Chez Desnoyer (Pot of Foie gras from his neighbor Hugo Desnoyer)

Assiette de Jambon Blanc de Pata Negra (Plate of Pata Negra white ham)

There’s the knife again that I’m obsessed with…9.47 by Perceval

Pied de Cochon simplement roti (Roasted pig’s feet – the winner of the day, the collagen was so superb!)

Carpaccio de veau sous la mere, Parmesan (96 mois) (Carpaccio of veal raised by its mother for 96 months) – what beautiful pink.

The wines are all natural (something I’m starting to like very much) and very light, also reasonably priced. We were joined by a nice young 2009 bottle of Burgundy.

We got a chance to talk to the Chef who was very funny and kind. He’s been in the business for 20 years and says he’s very happy where he is because he works for himself, gets up every morning and doesn’t really know what to expect of the day since it’s all based on market-menu. Surprisingly, he told us that Hugo Desnoyer sells produce to Hong Kong (Shangri-la Hotel to be exact) and that he himself is going to Hong Kong in November!

Very recommended on my part, but definitely needs a reservation.

Le Jeu de Quilles

45 Rue Boulard, 75014
01 53 90 76 22
Metro: Denfert-Rochereau (Ligne 4, Ligne 6)
Open for Lunch Tuesday-Saturday, Dinners are private

One Response to “Le Jeu de Quilles”
  1. Roberto says:

    Very good meal!! Loved it!
    Loved the lunch!


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