Marché d’Aligre

It has been a long time since I last went to a proper market and the Marché d’Aligre is one of Paris’ best; located just behind Bastille. It holds both an outdoor and indoor section.

This market stands out compared to other of Paris’ outdoor markets because it appears to be living in its own little world.

In the Aligre market, both the people and the produce are fascinating. There are dozens of stands selling about 100 different kinds of vegetables and if you’re not satisfied with one vendor’s fruit you just have to go next door to find a better one. The choice is surprisingly diverse with grapes from Sicily, dates from Algeria and Egypt and bananas from Martinique. The diversity is not just limited to fruits and vegetables but extends to meats, fish and shellfish as well.

The outdoor section is loud, noisy and tends to a younger crowd while indoor, things are much more calmer, and tending to an older clientele. At the heart of the market, stands one of the last remaining covered markets, Marché Beauvau which contains everything from poultry, to meat and charcuterie, cheeses and other artisanal delights from Portugal and Italy. You will find authentic French food like foie gras rather than a country sausage or a very fine cheese rather than something a bit more rustic and refined. But the indoor is no better than outdoor. They’re two completely different worlds, unique and inspiring in their own way. 

If you’re going to come to this side of town, don’t forget to check out Le Baron Rouge nearby, a working-class bar with affordable wines from all over France and serving great saucissons and oysters. No tables here, just upended wine barrels at the storefront. 

 3 Place Aligre, 75012

Tel: 01 43 43 34 26

Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny (Ligne 8)
Open Tuesday-Fri day: 9am-1pm, 4pm-8pm; Saturday 9am-2pm, 3pm-8pm; Sunday 9am-2pm

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