Sensing de Guy Martin

Important Note: Please be forewarned that this dinner was specially tailored for me , so it is possible that my experience is different and more positive than a regular visit.

 

When Guy Martin, chef of 2-star Michelin Grand Véfour, opened his first restaurant in 2006 called Sensing (now 1-star Michelin); he envisioned his restaurant to be different; it would be modern, sleek, shiny, a complete contrast to the traditional, formal, and often stuffy atmosphere of high-end restaurants.

 

In a quiet street of the 6th arrondissement, not far from Boulevard Raspail market, a bright light shines out of a window. Unlike the low lighting that adorns Paris’ streets, Sensing throws a shock of light that dominates the entire street. The decor, also, feels out of place in Paris. It made me feel as if I was in a high end restaurant in New York or London with glass windows and mirrors everywhere.

 

Upon entering, you face two projectors that flash pictures as well as show landscape serene videos by local artists all night long. Yet next to this subtle decoration, you see a painting of a couple showering together on the wall. A little strange and unsettling as in the back of the restaurant, the atmosphere is more calm and serene.

Guy Martin hired Chef Rémi Von Peteghem to lead the kitchen. The Chef, who honed his skills with Christian Lesquer at Ledoyen, turns out contemporary dishes with fine combinations of tastes. For a 1-star, service seemed adequate though some dishes arrived without clear verbal description as the waiter was too nervous to speak. Other servers were overtly gracious and loud. A bit of a confusion on how the restaurant wanted to portray itself.

The menu of Sensing is affordable for a 1-star. For lunch, the menu priced at €55 offers you amuse-bouche, entree, fish or meat, dessert with a half bottle of water, half bottle of wine and coffee or tea. For dinner, the menu is similar, with more choices in food but capped at €75 and €95.

Simple but elegant table decor

 

Tourteau en carapace et écume, brioche noire au beurre d’algues

Crab with crab foam, black ink bread with algae butter

Terrine de foie gras mi-cuit, cerise en fine gelée, et en compotée

Terrine of foie gras, with cherry 3 ways: jelly, jus and chutney

 

Beautifully constructed foie-gras

 

Sébaste (dorade) cuite sur peau, pieds bleus aux supions et tetragones

Seabream cooked in its skin with calamar

Pigeon d’Anjou enrobé de sucre muscovado, cuisse en farce fine, petits pois et oignons nouveaux

Pigeon from Anjou with muscovado sugar, stuffed leg and peas

 

Assortiment de fromages, abricots sauvages

Assortment of cheese, wild apricots

 

Chocolat de Tanzanie et noisettes caramélisées, pate sablee et glace Gianduja

Chocolate from Tanzania, caramelized nuts and sweetcrust pastry

 

Rhubarbe pochée, blanc manger et sorbet aux fruits du moment

Poached rhubarbe, white cheese and sorbet

 

A little more sweets before we leave…Marshmallow and sugar cookies 🙂

 

From the experience I had at Sensing, I suppose Guy Martin wanted a modern and funky restaurant including the food…or was it traditional food in a modern setting? All in all, the food was good, the flow between dishes went smoothly but I was distracted on trying to figure out what the restaurant was about.

Whatever the restaurant is trying to seek to be or become, I enjoyed the food more than other 1-stars I previously visited. 

Sensing

19 rue Brea, 75006

Website: http://www.restaurantsensing.com/

Tel: 01 43 27 08 80

Metro: Vavin (Ligne 4)

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