Schmidt—L’Os à Moelle

Most people in the neighborhood, knows the restaurant simply as L’Os à Moelle (literally, Bone Marrow), but after being taken oven in the fall of 2011 by chef Stéphane Schmidt, an ex of Le Violin d’Ingres (under Christian Constant), the menu has been given an Alsatian flavor, with wines to match. Schmidt felt the need to keep the iconic name, the telephone number and the star of the joint, bone marrow.

When I think of Alsatian food, I have flash backs to pork-laden romps, pork knuckles and lots and lots of potatoes, but here, the chef refines  the food and blasts stereotypes away. Lightly touching upon Alsatian roots, the bistro as well has a more sophisticated look with white tablecloths and beige walls.
 
 
The restaurant offers a six-course tasting menu at 55 euros, but by the time I realized they had a tasting menu, I was already sold to some particular dishes. A bit on the pricey side, but the value doesn’t come in par with the price in the end. 
 
Amuse-Bouche: traditional Alsatian tart with bacon, caramelized onion and cheese…hmmm
 
 
Os à Moelle tout simplement cuit dans un bouillon, salade du moment et pain de campagne. (Simple Bone Marrow cooked in a stock, seasonal salade and country bread)
 
 
It wasn’t your run in the mill bone marrow, it looked hard on the outside but was absolutely creamy with a hint of thick salt, creamy not to the point where it undoes itself and splatters all over your place. Just right. 
 
Foie gras de Canard, gelée de Gewurztraminer et chutney de rhubarbe. (Duck foie gras, Gewurztraminer wine jelly and rhubarb chutney)
 
 
Simple but beautiful in texture, with a hint of bitterness. As my good friend Zeina commented while stealing a bite from the foie gras: You can’t go wrong with Fat and bitterness!
 
Paté en croute de mon enfance, fine gelée de pinot noir. (Childhood pate en croute, pinot noir jelly). It’s certainly very difficult to make one of these, the crust has to be just right, not overcooked, a little soft but not mushy and the inside, well that’s always a surprise!
 
 
Plats
 
Cote de Boeuf de Baviere au confit d’échalotes grises. (Beef rib with preserved grey shallot. Best way to cook it, bloody. 
 
 
 
Paleron de boeuf braisé “Bourgeoise”, moelle à la fleur de sel. (Braised beef chuck “bourgeois”, bone marrow)
 
 
Cremeux chocolat noir, aux pistils de safran de “Grundwald” (Creamy dark chocolate with saffron from Grundwald)
 
 
Petit Kougelhof façon baba au rhum  (Kougelhof, baba au rhum style). Strong on the rhum side
 
 
Millefeuille minute vanille-caramel (minute-made vanilla and caramel millfeuille)
 
 
The lightest one of the bunch. Great puff pastry and a light vanilla taste. 
 
– All declicious albeit the chocolate and saffron which I couldn’t quite fix together. 
 
If you’re up for sampling Alsatian wine, you also won’t have to look no further. Just across the street is La Cave, and it is the closest you may get to being entertained by an elderly lady who’s as enthusiastic as a 20 year old. Food portions here are smaller but still deliciously prepared. 

Rich in food, flavor and tradition. You won’t have to go all the way to Alsace to sample some staple Germanesque-inspired food. 

Schmidt – L’Os à Moelle

Address: 3, rue Vasco de Gama, 75015

Telephone: 01 45 57 27 27

Closed: Sunday, Monday

Metro: Balard (Ligne 8), Lourmel (Ligne 8)

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Comments
3 Responses to “Schmidt—L’Os à Moelle”
  1. משב says:

    The Plates looks good especially the first one with the confit d’echalotes. What’s the price of this lunch menu?

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